Let's Talk Computer Audio

Converting From Lossless Format to MP3

David, September 11, 2007

Because I rip all of my music in lossless format (Windows Media 10), I am currently having to re-rip albums in mp3 in order to build a library on my wife's mp3 player.

Is there a way to do this straight from a lossless song?

Re: Converting From Lossless Format to MP3

Jeff (Editor), September 12, 2007

I salute you for not settling for anything but the best sound quality. You can convert your library to relatively painlessly using MediaMonkey.

MediaMonkey is the Swiss Army Knife of computer audio (for Windows) and it's free. You can download it from the Knowzy Software Library.

After you get it installed, here are the steps to convert your WMA lossless collection:

1. Run MediaMonkey. In the left pane of the program, browse to your WMA collection. You'll find it either under My Computer or My Documents.
2. Expand the folder containing your music collection. The top subfolder will be called "All." Select it. You will now see your entire collection in the right pane of MediaMonkey.
3. Select all of your songs by going to the Edit menu and clicking "Select All."
4. Go to the Tools menu and select "Convert Audio Format." In Convert Tracks dialog box, you need to change two settings, Destination and Format.
5. The "Destination" field serves two purposes: It tells MediaMonkey where to put converted files and how to name them. Designate a folder to save the files, such as C:\WifeTunes. Then describe how to name the files using placeholders such as <Artist>, <Title>, etc. Depending on your preferences, you will end up with something like C:\WifeTunes\<Artist>\<Year> <Album>\<Track#> - <Title>. As you build the template, you will see a preview of your new file names below.
6. Select MP3 as your format, then click Settings to choose the sound quality. You can calculate disk space and listen to sound clips at various levels of quality in our article "Comparing MP3 Bitrates."
7. Once you are satisfied with the destination and the format, click "Ok" and the conversion begins. You can watch the process at the bottom of the MediaMonkey window.

One note about MP3 encoding in MediaMonkey: Because of a licensing restriction, you are only allowed to encode to MP3 for 30 days. With some extra effort, you can continue encoding to MP3 forever. Just download the free LAME encoder and extract the file named lame_enc.dll to your \Program Files\MediaMonkey folder.

That's your quick tutorial on converting audio file formats with MediaMonkey. Let me know if you get stuck on any of the steps.

Re: Converting From Lossless Format to MP3

David, September 13, 2007

Wow! Thanks for that info.

It is so hard getting info from anyone who understands computers and quality audio. Trying to talk to computer techs about lossless or other audiophile issues brings a "deer in the headlights" look. I am into high end audio but am trying to educate myself about incorporating my pc.

One other question: When I rip music to windows in either mp3 or lossless, the rip is a lower volume than the original. I have done direct comparisons with the rip vs. cd at the time of rip and after and it is consistent.

The pc and cd player are the same but the rip is lower. I even tried putting it back on disc from the rip and if memory serves, it was back to original volume. I did read your article on audiograbber audio leveling but this seems like a ripping problem not a playback one.

Any ideas?

Re: Converting From Lossless Format to MP3

Jeff (Editor), September 14, 2007

You are welcome. I'm glad to be of service.

I can all but guarantee the difference in volume you're noticing is a playback issue, not a ripping issue. Playback from a CD-ROM typically goes through an analog output back into the sound card. Audio files are played directly through the sound card.

The "Windows Mixer" application allows you to individually adjust the volume levels of the analog and digital sources on your sound card. You can run the mixer by going to Control Panel, then Sounds, Speech, and Audio Devices, then Sounds and Audio Devices, then the Advanced button under Device Volume.

Your CD-ROM playback volume is usually called CD Player, but is sometimes called Line In. The volume for audio files is called Wave. Even if both of these are set evenly, it still doesn't guarantee the volumes will play equally.

The real test would be to burn a lossless file to an audio CD and compare it on an independent CD player (like in your car or home stereo). Play the original and then play the copy. The volume should be identical.

Lossless means just that- an exact, bit-by-bit copy of the original. If the volume were adjusted, it wouldn't truly be a lossless copy.

In WMA Lossless mode, Windows Media Player is incapable of ripping anything but an exact copy of the CD. Other programs with more capabilities have potential to make changes to the original audio on the CD.

Re: Converting From Lossless Format to MP3

David, September 14, 2007

OK, I'll try those volume settings.

I had previously burned a lossless cd and compared it on my home cd player and you're right, it was the same as the original.

Thanks!

Please Help: "No Sound Device or No Mixer Device Installed"

Rosa Vallejo, October 11, 2007

I recently rebooted my computer and now I can't play cd's or any kind of sound from my computer. I keep getting a message "No sound device or no mixer device installed." It played up until the reboot.

Re: Please Help: "No Sound Device or No Mixer Device Installed"

Jeff (Editor), October 12, 2007

Be prepared- this may be a tricky one! I have two things you can try. Neither are much fun.

My guess is that you've had this computer a while. Maybe two years or more? Windows XP is probably bloated and confused after plugging in devices and installing programs over the years.

The first thing to try is reinstalling your sound drivers. If that sounds difficult, it is nothing compared to the second option I'm going to give you: Reinstall Windows.

Here's the step-by-step for reinstalling your sound driver:

1. Right-click on a "My Computer" icon
2. Select "Manage" from the menu
3. In the Computer Management window, click "Device Manager"
4. In the right pane of the window, open the leaf that reads "Sound, video and game controllers"
5. Now you need to find your sound card in the list. You should see around six items in the list. I'm not sure which item it is, since it's unique to your computer. What I can tell you is which of the items is not your sound card:
   • Audio Codecs
   • Legacy Audio Drivers
   • Legacy Video Capture Drivers
   • Media Control Devices
   • Video Codes

   That should narrow down your choices. One of the remaining items is your sound card.

6. Select your sound card and press the Delete key. Don't worry, we're going to get it back!
7. In the "Action" menu, select "Scan for hardware changes." If we're lucky, little information bubbles saying "Found New Hardware" will start popping up in the bottom right of your screen.

Hopefully Windows found your sound card again and music is filling the air. If not, you will need to take the much more drastic step of reinstalling Windows.

This is not a trivial task. You will need the original discs that came with your PC. You should back up any important data and have a couple of hours to spare. I also recommend enlisting someone who has installed Windows before.

Hardware problems are tricky things. Having a techie tinker with your computer is often the best way to go in these situations.

Good luck!

Disappearing Music Files

David, November 10, 2007

Sometime in the last two weeks I have had a number of songs go missing from my computer. I use XP Media Player 10. Most of my music is lossless but some are mp3 or wma. It appears that the missing items (at least the ones I know of) are of the latter two varieties. I have found about 20 missing but out of thousands of songs it will take a long time to find how much is actually lost.

No recent power outages or anything unusual. I did run my 40g drive down to about 5-6g remaining a couple of months ago but cleaning out duplicate files got me up to around 13g free space.

This drive is a dedicated music library with only a couple of movies occasionally on it. I have used some of these files in the last weeks so I know it happened recently. Is there any way to find the missing files and/or keep this from happening again? I purchased a 320g USB external drive but it is acting goofy so am hesitant to trust it for a backup.

Re: Disappearing Music Files

Jeff (Editor), November 12, 2007

This is one of those mysteries that may ultimately go unsolved. I can give you some pointers on locating the music, assuming it's not lost forever. I can also assure you that you are not doomed to a life of randomly disappearing music files- they went away for a reason.

There was one thing in your letter that raised a red flag: You mentioned cleaning out duplicate files. Is it possible some of you music files could have been caught up in the sweep? Did you use a program to find duplicate files or use your own judgment (both have the potential for error)?

When you say missing songs, it could mean one of two things: Missing from your Windows Media Player library or physically missing from the hard drive. If they are missing from the library, you can simply add them back (once you find them). If they are missing from the hard drive, they may be gone for good.

Here's how to search your entire hard drive for your missing music files. From the Start Menu, select "Search." When the Search window appears, click "All Files and Folders." Finally, type in the name of a song you are missing in the top text box that reads, "All or part of the file name" and click "Search."

If your files show up in the search, they probably just went missing from your Windows Media Player library. Right-click the music file and select "Open Containing Folder" to see where these files are located on your hard drive. You can drag the music files right into your library.

If your search didn't turn up any missing files, your last resort is the Recycle Bin. You may find some, if not all of your missing files in there. If you do find them, the "Date Deleted" may clue you in to how these files were deleted. (What was I doing that day?)

Good luck to you. And get that backup system in place as soon as you can. The more you play around with your music collection, the more chances you have to mess something up!

Best Format for Music Player: MP3 or WMA?

David, February 14, 2008

I just purchased a new Sony mp3 player and I want to know which is the best format to rip my cd's into.

I am torn between WMA VBR or MP3 VBR. Which do you think I should try?

I have ripped a few albums using WMA VBR between 135kps>215 they sound good but I just want to make sure I get the best I can for the space I have to use; my player is an 8GB.

Is Mp3 better than WMA?

Re: Best Format for Music Player: MP3 or WMA?

Jeff (Editor), February 18, 2008

This is an excellent question. The short answer is WMA has better audio quality than MP3 at the same bitrate. You can use a lower bitrate with WMA, allowing you to pack more songs into the precious 8GB of space you have available.

However, this is a narrow way to look at the digital music collection you are about to build. Here are some other things to consider:

• Is your MP3 player the only place you will listen to your ripped music?

  Ripping your CD collection is a tedious process. Most people only want to go through it once. You are talking about ripping to sub-CD audio quality to save space. You may need to repeat this process all over again when space is no longer a consideration. You might be better off ripping to a high-quality or lossless format and then converting what you need for your MP3 player at lower sound quality.

• MP3 is the most compatible audio format in existence

  WMA works fine for your particular MP3 player and your computer. But it's not a universally compatible format like MP3. iPod's, for example, cannot play WMA.

• Saving only 10 to 15% space, using 10 to 15% more battery life

  WMA is a newer format than MP3 and uses less space to encode at the same quality. While it's a subjective figure, the space savings is in 10 to 15% range. However, WMA also requires more brain power to decode, meaning it is going to work your MP3 player harder. I read in an article once that you can expect a decrease in battery life of about 12% compared with MP3 files.

• Does it matter? Run the numbers

  If you're a big music fan, 8GB is not going to come close to holding your entire music collection. You will have to be selective about what music you put on your player. If you have fewer than a hundred CDs, you may be able to fit everything on your player using CD quality MP3s. You can estimate how much space your collection will take in our article "Comparing MP3 Bitrates." Variable bitrates tend to average out near the high number in the range, so choose a rate close but not exceeding this number.

There you have it. If you take the short term view and need to pack as much as you can into that 8GB, go WMA. If you want a music collection to last beyond this MP3 player, rip to high quality and convert down for your MP3 player.

Tagging a WAV File?

Mike Whitaker, July 31, 2008

I convert old vinyl to WAV files (for CD burning and later conversion to MP3). I find that whilst I can add advanced editor tags to files saved as MP3 in Windows Media Player, I can't add them to WAV files. Why - or can it be done?

If you know how, Help. Thanks.

Re: Tagging a WAV File?

Jeff (Editor), August 4, 2008

Unfortunately, the WAV file format is about as raw as they come. It does not support tagging of any kind. Your best bet is to use a more modern lossless format.

You didn't mention what program you're using to record the audio from your turntable but I'll venture a guess: Audacity.

FLAC (my personal favorite) is the only lossless format that Audacity can export to. However, you need to download the beta version to export to FLAC. (More on the current state of FLAC support in Audacity.)

Windows Media Player does not support FLAC natively. If you want advanced tag editing, MediaMonkey does the trick nicely for free.

MediaMonkey supports FLAC out-of-the-box. You can edit tags directly in the media library. You can multiselect tracks, right-click and select "Properties" to edit tags en masse. And the hi-res album art from Amazon is the icing on the cake!

Once you tag your FLAC files in MediaMonkey, you can convert them to MP3 with all the tags intact.

For my proposed solution, I'm making three assumptions: You're using Audacity to rip vinyl, you want to start saving in FLAC and you're willing to give up Windows Media Player for MediaMonkey. If that's the case, the following tutorial is for you.

With Audacity 1.3.3 in hand, here's how to export your vinyl rips to FLAC with basic tagging:

1. Do your normal recording from your record player.
2. When it comes time to save your track, select "Export" from the File menu.
3. In Export dialog, select "FLAC Files" from the "Save as type" drop down list.
4. Click the "Options" button. Select "8 (best)" from the Level drop down and make sure the default "16-bit" is selected.
5. Now for the tagging! Fill out the artist, the album, the genre, everything except the track title and the track number.
6. Click the "Set default" button. This remembers all the tags you just enter so you don't have to retype them on track 2.
7. Now enter the track title and track number.
8. Click OK and your done!

Audacity will not download album art. This is where MediaMonkey comes in handy. For the album cover artwork, highlight all the songs in album and select "Auto-Tag From Web."

Hope that helps!

Easiest Way to Copy My LPs to CDs?

Fay Moreno, January 6, 2009

I am 65+ and I must have at least 300 albums, and 500 45s, and even some 78s. I want to buy the easiest to use, ripping turntable (I think).

I saw Crosley Music Center and Crosley Songwriter CD Recorder at Macys. I also read about a Crosley Keepsake USB LP Ripping Turntable. Then I read about Staton T-90 USB turntable, Numark TTXUSB turntable, and ION LP-2-CD turntable.

My records have many scratches and skip alot. I am not really electronically savvy; please help me with which one might be the easiest to figure out and the best to buy.

Of course, like anyone else, I don't have money to pour down the drain. However, I know I need one that takes the skips and pops and hisses out.

I need all the help I could get. And I would like to purchase one soon. The Guitar Center in Philadelphia suggested the Staton T-90, but do I really need a professional DJ type?

I would greatly appreciate any and all help. Thank you very much for your kind consideration and attention to my problem.

Re: Easiest Way to Copy My LPs to CDs?

Jeff (Editor), January 6, 2009

I'm happy to give you all the help you need- particularly since you're the first person to ask my advice since I published my USB turntable guide! There's an ideal vinyl ripping turntable out there for you and I'll work with you to find it.

The first step is to be clear on your goals for digitizing your record collection. Here's what I gather, in order of priority:

1. Easy
2. Make CDs
3. Handle really skippy records
4. Decent sound quality
5. Remove hiss and pops

What I didn't hear you say was "put the music on your iPod or computer." That's a good thing if your top priority is easy- it means you don't need to get your computer involved.

A "Standalone" vinyl ripping turntable records LPs directly to CDs- no computer required. It doesn't get any easier than this. The right one can also accomplish most your goals except #5: Removing clicks and pops.

Unfortunately, technology has not been developed to overcome skips or badly damaged records. You can only rely on tried and true methods, namely cleaning and extra weight.

That said, some record players are better equipped to overcome skips. Turntables with adjustable anti-skate also allow you to apply more pressure to the record, making it tougher for a scratch to bounce the needle out of the groove.

Adjusting "counterbalance" knob at the end of the toneaem causes the needle put more force on the vinyl without taping pennies to the other end of the tonearm!

In the Standalone category, there is only one turntable with an adjustable counterbalance. In fact, it's one that you mentioned: Ion Audio's LP 2 CD.

The LP 2 CD has one more technique for dealing with skippy records that no other standalone has: Do-overs.

You can only record to a CD once. All other standalones record to CDs while your record is playing. If you want re-record because of skipping, you'll need another blank CD.

The LP 2 CD, on the other hand, has built-in memory. You can record that song over and over again until you finally get it right. When you're happy, you create a CD.

Removing clicks, pops and hiss does require a computer. That complicates the process significantly. You'll have to forego your top priority, "easy," if you want to get your computer involved.

That's not to say you can't learn. If you're willing to spend the time, invest in some good software and perhaps enlist a grandson, you can figure it out.

The Ion LP 2 CD connects to your computer via USB in addition to burning CDs, so you're prepared if you ever decide to take on the computer challenge.

So there's my first crack at finding your ideal vinyl ripping record player. Let me know how I did and if you have any additional questions or concerns.

Numark PT-01USB and Ion iPTUSB Have Ceramic Cartridges

Bradley Olson, January 21, 2009

Since this is a very inexpensive portable turntable, this uses a ceramic cartridge. There are many people who prefer the 1980s Audio-Technica Sound Burger portables as they use magnetic cartridges for better sound.

Re: Numark PT-01USB and Ion iPTUSB Have Ceramic Cartridges

Jeff (Editor), January 21, 2009

Photo courtesy of Toni Laakso

Audio-Technica's "Sound Burger." Sounds Good for a Portable.

A rare example of a portable record player with a decent, non-ceramic cartridge. Not sold in stores but maybe on eBay.

The Sound Burger is a fun looking turntable. Thanks for sharing it.

What a bonus that it features a moving magnet cartridge. So many battery-powered, portable turntables use ceramic cartridges.

I strongly suspect that the Numark PT-01USB and its cousin, the Ion iPTUSB, use ceramic cartridges. I even express my suspicions in the footnote for the turntable.

However, when I interviewed a rep. and a supervisor in Ion's Level 2 technical support department, they assured me that no Ion or Numark turntable has a ceramic cartridge. I even pressed them on this particular model and the TTUSB05. They stood firm.

So, as a (wannabe) journalist, the best I can do express my doubts until I have evidence to prove this is a ceramic cartridge and not a MM cart. To call it ceramic based on a price-point or a hunch is a good way to get sued, not to mention a violation of my primary obligation of accuracy in reporting.

If you can provide me proof that PT-01 has a ceramic cartridge, I will happily report it and offer my gratitude.

Re: Numark PT-01USB and Ion iPTUSB Have Ceramic Cartridges

Bradley Olson, January 21, 2009

From KAB's website in regards to the Vestax HandyTrax (which uses the same stylus as the PT-01USB and the iPTUSB):

AUTO SHUT-OFF :NO

SPEAKERS      :ONE 3"SPKR.

DRIVE SYSTEM  :BELT

               DC Servo

SPEEDS        :33/45/78

VARIABLE SPEED:10%

Stylus incl.  : LP Sapphire

---Replacement Styli ------

Stylus LP     :793-D7

Stylus 78     :793-S3

If KAB mentions "LP Sapphire" in their description and the replacement stylus is 793-D7, this is the same stylus used in "nostalgia" turntables, then it uses a ceramic cartridge.

Re: Numark PT-01USB and Ion iPTUSB Have Ceramic Cartridges

Jeff (Editor), January 22, 2009

Ask and ye shall receive, as the saying goes! Thanks so much for the info. And thanks for showing me a resource where I can independently verify a manufacturer's claims about their cartridges.

Companies like Kab Acoustics and Stylus Plus in the UK know their cartridges. Both state unambiguously that the PT-01USB and iPTUSB feature ceramic cartridges.

That's good enough for me. The chart now reflects a ceramic cart instead of a moving magnet.

Thanks again for providing the evidence I needed to confirm my suspicions. I can now confidently tell the world, "You're getting a ceramic cartridge if you buy one of these turntables!"

Re: Numark PT-01USB and Ion iPTUSB Have Ceramic Cartridges

Bradley Olson, January 22, 2009

Marketing photo from Steve Hoffman Forums

They Don't Make Boom Boxes Like This Anymore!

A truly unique portable stereo. The turntable even plays both sides without flipping over the record.

Another collectible vintage portable turntable is the Sharp VZ-2000 and its successor, VZ-2500. It is a boombox with a linear tracking turntable built in.

See the following sites:

• Sharp VZ-2500 Vertical Turntable (from Vintage Hi-Fi)
• Cool Boombox: The Ghettoblaster Hall of Fame
• Sound Burger Thread (page 2) at Steve Hoffman's Music Forums

Outsourcing Vinyl Ripping to Kids and Other LP Digitizing Fun

Terry, March 5, 2009

I just found your site through VinylEngine and am thrilled!

I have been digitizing for a while now, with about 200 albums completed (800 to go).

I initially went with a USB turntable. I chose the Stanton T.90 and am happy with the choice. It has features that a normal turntable has such as anti-skate etc. It also felt solidly constructed. I upgraded the cartridge after testing a few.

I also tested a handful of recording software and cleaning software, but avoided any that were greater than $100. I decided upon Audacity for recording and splitting. I use GrooveMechanic for removing ticks and pops. I tend to clean albums only if they have severe noise. For a handful of ticks, I would edit them in Audacity.

My testing method for cleaning software and cartridges was to clean/record a song I know well several times. I then pressed them all to a single cd and listened to them on my stereo. I then listened myself and had others listen to gather their feedback.

For archiving, playback and tweaking mp3 tags, I am using iTunes.

As an added bonus, this project has also been a family treat. My two sons are paid per album that they digitize. It has led to a lot of fun discussions and broadened their appreciation of various musical genres.

I just thought I would share one audiophile's approach and experiences to digitizing his music within a modest budget.

Re: Outsourcing Vinyl Ripping to Kids and Other LP Digitizing Fun

Jeff (Editor), March 10, 2009

I'm glad you liked the USB turntable guide. I learned a great deal writing it and I learn more every day from my readers and sites like the Vinyl Engine.

I love the idea of outsourcing the tedious work of vinyl ripping to your kids. What a great way to introduce them to new music (and dynamic range) while conserving your time which is worth more money. It's a win-win!

I'm glad to hear you're enjoying your Stanton. DJ USB turntables are definitely a step up from "consumer" USB turntables. They place an emphasis on sound quality that cheaper USB turntables can't match because, well, they're cheap.

You addressed the major issue with DJ turntables- the cartridge. Many don't come with a cartridge. Others, like the Stanton turntables, come with a DJ cartridge, which press the needle hard against the vinyl.

A DJ turntable is designed to keep the stylus in the groove, despite rapid back and forth platter movements and quick stops and starts. Part of this design is a cartridge that exerts quite a bit of force on the record.

This is a great thing if you're a DJ. It's also handy if your records are badly scratched and damaged. DJ cartridges are bad if you want to keep your vinyl in pristine condition, as the increased "tracking force" accelerates record wear.

Luckily, all DJ turntables accept "hi-fi" cartridges with as little as one-fifth the tracking force of a DJ cartridge.

Which cartridge did you settle on? How do you like it?

Thanks for reminding me about Groove Mechanic. It's a software package I've been meaning to add to the list, along with Adobe Audition.

As I browse the list of vinyl ripping software, I'm struck by the lack of free declicking applications. Audacity is the only one.

Of course, your Stanton comes bundled with Cakewalk pyro 5, which also eliminates clicks, pops and hiss. I know you weren't impressed with Audacity's declicking facilities but I wonder how pyro's compares with Groove Mechanic.

Thanks for sharing your vinyl ripping experiences and tips.

Using M-Audio FastTrack Pro for Vinyl Ripping

Brian Marron, May 10, 2009

I am not sure how the external USB soundcard shown on the webpage, M-Audio Fasttrack Pro, supports LP recording from an existing turntable/phono preamp system. There are no RCA inputs and only a single SPDIF input on this soundcard. How would one connect the output from a phono-preamp to this device?

Re: Using M-Audio FastTrack Pro for Vinyl Ripping

Jeff (Editor), May 12, 2009

Image courtesy of M-Audio

M-Audio Fast Track Pro

Retail Price:   $249.95

Notable

• USB Sound Card
• Signal To Noise Ratio: 101dB
• XP, Vista and Mac compatible

Manufacturer's Product Page

Buy from zZounds

$199.00*

Image courtesy of American Recorder

American Recorder 1/4" to RCA Adapter

Retail Price:   Not Available

Notable

• Right: Female RCA connection
• Left: Male 1/4" (6.3mm) Mono TS connection

Manufacturer's Product Page

Buy from Amazon

$1.49*

You are correct- there are no RCA inputs- the M-Audio FastTrack Pro has 1/4" jacks for a line-in. The RCA's are easily adaptable to 1/4". Unfortunately, I couldn't find any USB sound cards with RCA inputs and a Signal to Noise ratio exceeding 100db, which is the standard I set for the sound card section of the web site.

Connecting a Turntable to the M-Audio FastTrack Pro

Here's what you need to do hook up your turntable to the M-Audio or similar USB sound cards with 1/4" TS jack. A high-resolution photo of the FastTrack Pro front panel may help you follow along.

1. Connect the record player to a pre-amp. The M-Audio doesn't have a phono pre-amp. It does have a microphone pre-amp but it doesn't work the same.
2. Connect 1/4" adaptors to RCA cables. The output from your pre-amp, whether it's a receiver or a standalone pre-amp, will likely output to an RCA cable. Attach RCA to 1/4" TS adaptors to the ends of these cables and connect them to the front jacks of the FastTrack Pro. These should be mono adaptors (TS) as opposed to stereo adaptors (TRS).
3. Set inputs to "Instrument." On the side of each 1/4" input, you will find a button that reads "Inst/Mic." Both buttons should be set to Inst.
4. Turn off "Pad." Just below the Inst/Mic buttons, there's a Pad button. Turn this off.
5. Set to "Stereo." To the right of the input jacks, there is a "Stereo/Mono" button. Set it to stereo.
6. Adjust gain. This is where you "set the levels" before your the analog signal reaches the analog to digital converter. Both gain knobs should be set to the same level. With a record playing, adjust the gain as loud as possible without the red "Clip" light flickering. LP is recorded at various volumes, so if you want to "set it and forget it," be conservative and set it somewhat lower than the level where you find clipping. Just ensure the green "signal" light is constantly lit.

That's what it takes to run your turntable through a FastTrack Pro.

A Good USB Sound Card is Hard to Find (with a line-in, that is)

The FastTrack Pro and similar, extremely quiet USB sound cards are designed with musicians in mind. They include XLR microphone inputs and mic pre-amps, 1/4" inputs for a guitar, MIDI inputs for keyboards and other digital music equipment.

All of the external USB sound cards I've found with an S/N ratio exceeding 100dB are similarly designed for musicians, namely the EMU 0404 USB and the Infrasonic Amon.

Typically, other USB sound cards have only outputs or, if they do have an input, it is only for a microphone (not a line level input).

I was only able to find one current USB sound card with a line-in: The Turtle Beach Audio Advantage SRM*. It has a S/N of 82dB. The line-in jack is a stereo 1/8" jack, not RCA.

Don't Forget USB Sound Card/Pre-amp Combos

The idea behind the "Upgrade Your Sound Card" section is to present excellent replacements to poor sound cards. However, there is another class of USB sound cards designed especially for vinyl ripping. These sound cards feature an analog to digital converter and a phone pre-amp built into one box that plugs right into your USB port.

See the section "Turn Any Turntable into a USB Turntable" for a complete rundown on these boxes.

These sounds card have RCA inputs and even a grounding screw. The ART PhonoPlus V2 even outputs to S/PDIF in addition to USB.

You can't directly compare the S/N of these sound cards to the line level input on traditional sound cards. The inclusion of a phono pre-amp invariably reduces the figure below 100dB. Keep in mind, though, even the best turntables don't break 80dB S/N, so as long as your sound card and pre-amp are quieter, you should be OK.

Volume Really Low on Crosley CR249 (Keepsake Turntable)

Jenny, May 15, 2009

I own the Crosley CR249 USB turntable and am having a difficult time with trying to get the burned cd's to have any volume using Audacity.

My question is, does the Crosley Keepsake Turntable have a built-in preamp? I cannot tell.

Thanks.

Re: Volume Really Low on Crosley CR249 (Keepsake Turntable)

Jeff (Editor), May 12, 2009

Original Volume Level

Click the record to hear a Pink Floyd clip recorded on the CR249. The volume is very low.

Volume Normalized

Listen to the same clip after raising the volume the max without clipping.

Volume Amplified 7.5dB

Listen to the CR249 clip after raising the volume past the clipping level.

The Crosley Keepsake Turntable does not have a pre-amp nor does it need one. The issue with the really quiet recording, in my understanding, is a problem with the analog to digital converter. Worry not, though, you can use Audacity to fix the problem.

The CR249 doesn't have a pre-amp because it uses a ceramic cartridge. Manufacturers use these, frankly, inferior cartridges so that they avoid the expense of a pre-amp. If it had a magnet cartridge, a pre-amp would be required.

Ceramic cartridges generate a strong enough signal for a normal volume level. However, in the Crosley, the recording volume is set very low at the A/D converter stage just before the audio goes out your USB cable.

On our USB turntable samples page, you can hear how low the volume is compared to Audio-Technica's and Ion Audio's USB turntables. It's very noticeable.

Image courtesy of Crosley

Crosley CR249-TA

Retail Price:   $149.95

Basics | Connections & Features

Construction | Specs

Listen to this turntable

Notable

• Portable with built-in speakers. Comes in black and tan.
• Plays 78 records, though you should change the needle.

Warnings

• Ceramic cartridge

Manufacturer's Product Page

Buy from Amazon

$109.00*

Normalizing the Volume in Audacity

Audacity's Normalize Window

Select Normalize from the Effect menu in Audacity to bring up this dialog box.

"Normalizing" is the highest you can raise the volume without losing the loudest parts of the music. After normalizing, the peaks of your music reach the maximum amplitude but never exceed it.

Normalizing makes a huge difference in raising the volume level on the Crosley. Hear for yourself in the samples above.

When you normalize you albums, you should do it all at once, rather than song by song. There are two reasons for this. First, it's just easier. Second, it ensures that the amplification is consistent across the whole album- songs the artist meant to be quiet aren't suddenly blaringly loud.

Here's how you normalize your LP recordings using Audacity:

1. Record an entire album as you normally would. It is best to have the whole album in a single Audacity project.
2. Select all of the waveform. Hold down Ctrl and press A or choose "Select All" from the Edit menu.
3. Select "Normalize" from the Effect menu. The default values are ideal: Remove DC offset and maximum amplitude 0.0dB.
4. Click "OK" and you're done. After some processing, you will see the waveform grow dramatically with some parts reaching the top or bottom.

Amplifying Your LP Recordings in Audacity

Audacity's Amplify Window

Select Amplify from the Effect menu in Audacity. Use sparingly- it's bad for your music!

You can make your recordings even louder using Audacity's Amplify effect. However, the loudness comes at a price: It will destroy the recording's dynamic range.

Dynamic range (in audio terms) is defined as the ratio of the loudest sound to the softest. In a recording with good dynamic range, the difference in volume between a whisper and a symphony climax is extreme. The more you destroy your dynamic range, the closer in volume these events become.

It begs the question: Why would you want to do this to your music? Personally, I never would.

However, producers of popular music are increasingly making their music "louder" by destroying dynamic range. The phenomenon even has a name: "The Loudness War."

The sad truth is, if you don't want to reach for the volume knob when shuffling your LP recordings in with your digitally produced pop music, you must do something to compete with it.

Amplifying your music well beyond the clipping point is one way to do it and that's what we're describing here.

Another tactic is to deal with it on the playback end. The ReplayGain standard is an excellent solution, though still not widely supported.

With all my disclaimers and warnings out of the way, if you still want to go through with it, here's how to amplify your music in Audacity:

1. Record your LP as normal. Again, it's best to record have entire album available in the Audacity project window.
2. Select the entire waveform. Ctrl + A.
3. Select "Amplify" from the Effect menu.
4. Adjust Amplify settings. The further you move the slider to the right, the louder your music will be. A positive number in the "New Peak Amplitude" text box means you are going clip your music and destroy your dynamic range. Audacity doesn't want you to do this by accident, so you have to check the "Allow Clipping" checkbox before continuing. In my example, I could only bring myself to use 7.5dB. You'll have to experiment with this number yourself to decide what works best for you.
5. Click OK. After some processing, the waveform expands. The loudest points will be "through the roof."

S/PDIF Input Options for Under $100

Dave Angus, June 30, 2009

The ADSTech RDX-150 "Instant Music" USB sound box has Toslink optical S/PDIF input and output, as well as line level.

Quoting a post of mine on another forum:

I bought an RDX-150 on sale at Staples and had a look inside. The USB codec is a Burr-Brown/TI PCM2902E. Build quality looks pretty good (made in Taiwan, not China); the other chips are all major brands. It's got low-pass filters on the analog inputs and outputs, just like the evaluation board that TI sells for the PCM2902.

I figured the S/PDIF input would be useful with a turntable that had S/PDIF output.

For what it's worth, this article from AudioXpress reviewed a bunch of inexpensive preamps:

http://www.audioxpress.com/reviews/media/403hansen2090.pdf

Anyway, congratulations! Your site is doing a great service if it saves potential victims from wasting money on overpriced junk.

Re: S/PDIF Input Options for Under $100

Jeff (Editor), July 2, 2009

Image courtesy of ADS Technologies

ADS Technologies RDX-150

Retail Price:   $56.20

Notable

• Includes Spin It Again software, with almost a perfect score in the Vinyl Ripping Features checklist.
• No phono pre-amp. You must supply one for RCA inputs. Not required for S/PDIF input.

Manufacturer's Product Page

Buy from Amazon

$37.09*

Image courtesy of RiteAV

RiteAV Coaxial to Optical Converter (196430)

Retail Price:   $13.99

Notable

• All S/PDIF turntables have coaxial outputs. ADS Tech RDX-150 doesn't have a coaxial S/PDIF input; it only has an optical S/PDIF input.
• This box converts from coax S/PDIF to optical (Toslink) S/PDIF.

Manufacturer's Product Page

Buy from Amazon

See site*

Image courtesy of ARTcessories

ARTcessories USBPhonoPlus v2

Retail Price:   $129.00

Notable

• USB sound card and pre-amp in one
• Coax and optical (Toslink) S/PDIF inputs

Manufacturer's Product Page

Buy from Amazon

$68.00*

Great find! The ADS Tech RDX-150 is an affordable solution for people who need an S/PDIF input and it's cheaper than the ART PhonoPlus v2. While it is missing the coax connection that all S/PDIF turntables have, that's fixable with an adapter. A huge bonus: The ADS Tech comes with Acoustica's Spin It Again software, a full-featured vinyl ripping program.

Comparison to ARTcessories PhonoPlus v2

Before you introduced me to this box, I only knew of one device to add an S/PDIF input to your PC for under $100. Now that I have a second, it seems appropriate to compare the ADS Tech RDX-150 to the ART box.

• Cheaper: You can pick up an ADS Tech box for about half the price of an ART box. However, if you want to connect an S/PDIF turntable to it, you still need to buy an adapter. (Read on...)
• No Coax S/PDIF Input: I have yet to find a turntable with an optical S/PDIF output- they are all coaxial. That's not a problem on the ART box: It has both an optical (Toslink) and coaxial input. The ADS Tech box only has an optical input. You need a separate adapter to connect an S/PDIF turntable to it. I found one on Amazon for $14, so, even with the added expense, you are still saving $30 or more over the ART box.
• Vinyl Ripping Software The ADS Tech comes Acoustic's Spin It Again, a program designed specifically for digitizing LPs that retails for $45- a little more than the ADS Tech box itself. The ART box comes with Audacity, a general purpose audio editing program you can download for free.
• No Phono Pre-amp If you are only interested connecting an S/PDIF turntable, this is not a problem. However, this might be a problem if you want to connect an analog turntable to your computer. Read more below.
• Extra ART features The ART PhonoPlus v2 has many more connections, features and, of course, a pre-amp. Let's compare:

ADS Tech RDX-150: No Phono Pre-amp

Given that ADS Tech bills this box as vinyl digitizer, I find it strange that it is missing a phono pre-amp. After all, most turntables require a pre-amp and it seems like the lack of one inconveniences a large chunk of their target market.

The missing pre-amp is the precisely the reason why the ADS Tech RDX-150 didn't make it into the "Turn Any Turntable into a USB Turntable" section of the USB turntable guide. I can't claim that with this box, since extra equipment is required.

I suppose two arguments could be made for not including a pre-amp: One, it keeps the cost low. Two, at this price-point, if they were to include a pre-amp, it would be, well, a cheap pre-amp.

The excellent AudioXpress article you provided offers some great insight as to what might be lacking in a low-cost pre-amp. Particularly RIAA equalization accuracy and freedom from noticeable noise and hum.

Thanks for sharing a valuable addition to the sub-$100 S/PDIF input solution.

Solution for Digitizing Cassettes and LPs

Dr. Bebop, September 26, 2009

Does anyone know if there are good USB turntable setups, or pre-amp setups for analog turntables, which can also be used for digitizing cassettes (even if it is as MP3 and not WAV file)? Any thoughts on best USB cassette digitizers, otherwise?

Does the phono have to be hooked up to the amplifier, and the pre-amp and computer?  That's more room to work with, in which case perhaps a laptop brought to the stereo is a better setup.  Without the amp, setting up with the desktop is more workable.

Phono is an Ariston Pro and deck is Sony K707ES, both likely better specs than the USB versions, excepting top flight models.

Any way to digitize cassettes as WAV files, and not MP3? I know you can do WAV files from phono, and that's preferable, since there's no compression of the sound. MP3-cultured kids may not care, but I do. Any fave software? I heard good things about Cakewalk, but Spin It Again looked good on your site.

Thanks!- LP/cassette collection to go.

Re: Solution for Digitizing Cassettes and LPs

Jeff (Editor), September 29, 2009

Image courtesy of ARTcessories

ARTcessories USBPhonoPlus v2

Retail Price:   $129.00

Notable

• USB sound card and pre-amp in one
• Coax and optical (Toslink) S/PDIF inputs

Manufacturer's Product Page

Buy from Amazon

$68.00*

Front Side of ART PhonoPlus V2.

Press the "Input" button in when recording vinyl and out when recording from tape.

It sounds like you already have an analog turntable and just need a way to digitize it. Our section, "Turn Any Turntable into a USB Turntable" might be worth checking out.

There you'll find a selection of boxes that include a phono pre-amp and USB output. For cassettes, you just switch off the pre-amp and you're digitizing at line-level.

The ARTcessories box is my clear favorite because it has so many options. However, it doesn't come with any special software- just a free program called Audacity. The program does the trick but it takes some time to learn.

The ION Audio box comes with EZ Vinyl Creator software. You can read my review of it. The software is easy to use but has some serious limitations, like MP3 only (no WAV).

Yes, you can connect your record player and cassette player to the same box. And no, you don't need to get your stereo receiver involved.

It might help to follow along with the ART PhonoBox pictures. Click the pictures to zoom in.

• In the first picture, you have two RCA (red and white) inputs labeled, "Preamp Phono Line In." You would connect either your turntable or your cassette player here. There's even a grounding screw for your turntable.
• It's a little hard to see but in the second picture, on the left, is a button that says "Input." Underneath it reads "Phono" when the button is pushed in and "Line" when the button is out. To record from your turntable, guess what, make sure the button is set to Phono. When recording from a cassette player, a DVD player, a VCR or just about any other audio source (aside from a microphone), set the button to Line.

There is some great software written to address the needs of digitizing from a record player. The top two in my "Vinyl Ripping Software" list are "Vinyl Studio" and "Spin It Again." Both also support digitizing cassettes.

I don't have formal reviews of these packages yet but you can read a mini-review and comparison at the Vinyl Engine.

Spin It Again and VinylStudio can both record to WAV. And I care about the difference too. Everything I digitize goes to FLAC (a more modern WAV-like format), then I convert the music to MP3 for portable devices, etc.

Cakewalk is great if you're a musician and want to produce music. It is not designed specifically for digitizing vinyl or tapes, though it is possible if you poke around enough. You can read my review of the version of Cakewalk that comes with some USB turntables.

Good luck with your digitizing project!

What USB Turntable to Put Under the Christmas Tree?

Marie Sanderson, December 5, 2009

My son asked for a turntable so he could listen to our old lps. I would like to find something that would allow him to transfer music to digital format.

From what I've read the best advice seems to be get a good turntable and not a usb.

He uses a Mac and is a music freak...his hobbies include guitar and drum playing. Can someone help me put something together?

Thank you.

Re: What USB Turntable to Put Under the Christmas Tree?

Jeff (Editor), December 5, 2009

Image courtesy of Ion Audio

Ion Audio LP DOCK

Retail Price:   $299.95

Basics | Connections & Features

Construction | Specs

Notable

• Upgradable cartridge, adjustable gain, USB output
• Record directly to an iPod (not as useful as it sounds).

Manufacturer's Product Page

Product Flyer (PDF)

Buy from Amazon

$101.70*

It's true that the better turntables don't have digital outputs. However "better" starts around $300 and quickly goes up from there.

If Santa's going to be that good to your son, take a look at the turntables in the "Superior Analog Turntables" section. Then get a one of the three boxes found in the "Turn Any Analog Turntable into a USB Turntable" section (the ARTcessories box is probably your best bet).

There are reasonable-sounding turntable for around $100. The trick is to avoid the really bad sounding ones also in that price range. You can listen to actual recordings from three turntables around that price on the Samples page.

Personally, I like the Ion turntables at this level. The LP Dock, at $129 on Amazon, is a great value for a few reasons:

• It's expandable: You can upgrade the cartridge for even better sound.
• You can adjust the recording volume: It is one of the few USB turntables with an "adjustable gain" at any price. This helps him pull the full fidelity out of quietly recorded LPs.
• It has Mac software: All Ion turntables come with a program called, "EZ Vinyl." It lives up to its name- very easy to use. It's great way to get started, though he'll probably graduate to software with more advanced features pretty quickly.

I hope that gives you some ideas.

Re: What USB Turntable to Put Under the Christmas Tree?

Marie Sanderson, December 6, 2009

Thank you so much for your prompt and informative response. Santa is very happy to hear about the ION ..it's within his budget.

I must say I am quite grateful for your help. You made my day.

Thank you,

Marie

Gift of Bad USB Turntable Makes Neither Giver nor Receiver Happy

Bill Nelson, January 3, 2010

I received an Innovative Technology ITUT-201 USB turntable for Christmas. Although the quality level isn't up to my Technics SL-J33 Quartz Drive turntable, that one hasn't worked for several years and an authorized shop was unable repair it properly.

This one has a ceramic cartridge, but has the "advantage" of connecting directly to the USB port. However, my first few attempts at ripping music from my LP collection have been futile.

I've been using "Audacity" for ripping cassettes for months, and am fairly satisfied with the results. The turntable hasn't worked nearly as well. The audio envelope is clipped about 80% of the time and none of the level controls available have any effect.

I understand now, from the information on this site, that the USB input bypasses the audio card. If I can find some suitable conversion cables, do you think using the line out from the ceramic cartridge to the "line in" jack on the sound card would cure this problem? If not, do you have any other suggestions?

Thanks!

Re: Gift of Bad USB Turntable Makes Neither Giver nor Receiver Happy

Jeff (Editor), January 4, 2010

Image courtesy of Cables to Go

Cables to Go Female L/R RCA to 1/8" male adapter

Retail Price:   $9.64

Notable

• Left: Female stereo RCA connections for your turntable cable
• Left: Male 1/8" (3.5mm) for your computer

Manufacturer's Product Page

Buy from Amazon

$0.01*

Image courtesy of Audio-Technica

Audio-Technica AT-LP120-USB

Retail Price:   $429.00

Basics | Connections & Features

Construction | Specs

Notable

• Digital version of the reknown AT-PL120 DJ turntable.

Manufacturer's Product Page

Product Flyer (PDF)

Buy from Amazon

$200.70*

Image courtesy of Technics

Technics SL-1210MG5 Pro

Retail Price:   $899.95

Basics | Connections & Features

Construction | Specs

Warnings

• Analog turntable, must digitize
• Cartridge not included

Manufacturer's Product Page

Buy from Musician's Friend

$749.00*

My suggestion? Return it while there is still time and exchange it for something better!

No matter how you connect it, this turntable will disappoint you. The ceramic cartridge pickup will never satisfy ears accustomed to hearing a nice Technics, linear-tracking turntable.

Using Your Sound Card Instead of USB

You can bypass the analog to digital converter built in to the turntable and use your sound card instead. However, if you believe clipping is occurring, a basic sound card is unlikely to help.

The cartridge itself generates the voltage that hits the line-in on your sound card in a ceramic cartridge system. If that signal is so "hot" that it clips analog to digital converter in the turntable, it is likely to do the same in the A/D converter in your sound card.

On better sound cards, you can attune a hot signal before hits the A/D converter (called "gain adjustment"). On basic, built-in sound cards, you can only adjust volume after the conversion, and the clipping, occurs.

To connect the Innovative Technology turntable to your sound card, just pick up stereo female RCA to 1/8" male adapter. Then plug it into the line-in jack of your sound card (just like the cassette deck).

Listen to Mine

You wrote at a perfect time- I just created samples from the same turntable (though a different brand name- Grace Digital Audio). The recordings, like yours, are noticeably bad.

And it skipped frequently, like the other ceramic cartridge turntable I tested.

Here's a sneak preview of the samples I produced. Compare them to your samples. Do they sound about as bad?

• The Black Eyed Peas – Dum Diddy
• Gorillaz – Dare (must hear!)
• Pink Floyd – On the Run
• Steely Dan – Peg
• Fleetwood Mac - Rhiannon

Now compare these samples to those from similarly priced USB turntables with better cartridges. The Audio-Technica and the Ion are both moving magnet. The Crosley is another ceramic.

Make Everyone Happy- Exchange the Turntable for Something Better

You're in a situation where no one is happy. The person giving you the gift feels bad because it falls short of your expectations. You feel bad because you can't entrust this turntable digitally enshrine your cherished vinyl collection.

Thank the person who gave it to you but ask for the receipt. He or she probably bought it at Wal-Mart, JC Penny's or Kohl's.

Make everyone happy. Get a refund and use the money toward a better USB turntable.

Here's the Turntable I See for You

You have an 80's era Technics turntable that you can't repair. The department store put $100 in your pocket when you returned the bad USB turntable. You probably don't want to spend over $700 on a new Technics SL-1200. (Yes, they still make 'em!)

The answer: Audio-Technica just came out with a digital version of their SL-1200 imitator- the AT-PL120- and it's selling for around $300.

The digital version is the AT-LP120-USB. It's direct drive, comes with a cartridge pre-installed, has a built-in pre-amp and USB output. Most importantly, it has that Technics-like, 80's turntable charm for hundreds less than a new Technics SL-1200 package.

To be sure, the specs on the PL120 fall short of the SL-1200. But they beat the Innovative Technology turntable by a mile.

You Left Out 78 Records, You Insensitive Clod!

Steven C. Barr (who owns about 56,500 old 78's!), January 4, 2010

Your site says nothing about using current analog (or digital!) hardware to play "78's" even though most such gear offers that speed as a selection!

The most important point is not even mentioned, being the fact that 78 rpm records have groove sizes of .0025" to .004" This means that using stereo microgroove needles (often included with current players!) to play "78's" will provide poor results at best...and worse yet will quickly make the needle useless (or even dangerous!) for playing vinyl microgroove (33, 45) records!

None of the companies which make and sell current turntables says anything about this situation, so buyers often see the "78" on the speed selector and assume they can play 78's!

Re: You Left Out 78 Records, You Insensitive Clod!

Jeff (Editor), January 7, 2010

Coming Soon to Knowzy: Mozart on 78

Playing back century-old 78 RPM records is challenging. Yours truly will soon find out how challenging.

Another 78 from 1921

This was four years before the industry standardized on 78 RPM. At what speed should this record play? I’ll need to research that!

I'll admit that 78 record info is sparse but it's there. For example, I go into the subject fairly deeply in my review of the Crosley CR249.

But you're right- it's too little and not prominent enough.

Let's begin fixing this here and now with what follows. Eventually, the info in this thread will become the basis for a main topic in the turntable guide.

I do plan to try this out personally. I have some 78 records on loan from a relative. I just need to get the equipment to do something meaningful with them.

What Everyone Should Know About Digitizing 78 Records

Judging by your name, you wrote the book on 78 record collecting. I invite you to interject with nuance and corrections.

The bare minimum for getting reasonable sound and not damaging your records seems to be this:

1. A turntable with a 78 RPM speed and a 1/2" or P-mount.
2. A Stanton V500 cartridge
3. A special needle designed to fit much wider 78 record grooves.

But there's a lot more to it. Century-old shellac records aren't always in the best condition. Record makers used varying record speeds, materials, equalizations and cutting processes.

If you are committed to faithful reproduction of your 78 records, expect to put a great deal of time and money pursuing it.

Here's a brain dump of my knowledge on the subject 78 record archiving:

• You need a special needle. Period. End of Story. In fact, you will find yourself with several types of styli if you get serious about 78 record restoration.
• Regular needles sound terrible. If you put a vinyl needle to a shellac record, you will hear music. However, you will also get an unbearable amount of surface noise. There are two reasons for this:
  • You're playing the dust and debris at the bottom of the groove. The groove on a 78 record is at least three times wider than an LP with a "microgroove." Your regular, vinyl needle will drop to the bottom of the groove where nearly a century of dust, debris and mold has collected. A needle designed for 78s matches the width of the groove and rises above the debris.
  • Lower part of groove is likely worn. In the heyday of shellac 78 records, record player manufacturers advised you to change the needle with every play. Few followed that advice. This resulted in damage to the lower part of the groove. A wider, modern 78 stylus hits the untouched "sweet spot" higher up in the groove, where a vintage needle couldn't go.
• 78 records will damage regular needles, not the other way around. A common misconception is that using a modern, vinyl stylus on a shellac 78 record will damage the record. In fact, just the opposite is true- a 78 record will damage your vinyl needle, which, in turn, may ruin your LP records. Even the lousiest of vinyl needles will exert less than 10 grams of pressure on a record. Back in the early days of 78 records, needles placed an ounce (128 grams) or more of pressure on the shellac. 10 grams will have little impact on most 78 records. The rigid shellac grooves, however, will make a big impact on a delicate vinyl needle.
• USB turntable manufacturers offer reckless advice on 78 record playback. The Crosley CR249 USB turntable has a 78 speed. However, Crosley doesn't make a 78 needle and the manual instructs you to simply switch to 78 and play. Similarly, you can't attach a 78 needle to most Ion Audio turntables. But that doesn't stop them from including a half page of instructions on recording 78 records. If you follow either of these companies' lead, you're likely to damage the next vinyl record you play.
• Record in stereo, even though 78 records are mono. Often one side of the record groove is more damaged than the other. By recording in stereo, the inner grove becomes the left channel and the outer groove becomes the right channel. Listen to each individually and you may find one channel sounds better. Keep that one, and discard the other. Your recording will be that much better for it.
• Getting proper speed is tough. 78 RPM (78.26 more precisely) wasn't standardized until 1925. Earlier records were recorded as slow as 67 RPM and as fast as 85. Sound HiFi in the UK will modify your Technics SL-1200 MKII to play at speeds between 71.29 and 90 RPM but it costs around $1,000. You can change the speed of your recordings in free programs like Audacity and Mixx. However, in my experience, such effects lead to choppy sounding music.
• Getting proper equalization is tough. After 1955, records were produced with the bass lowered and treble raised according to the RIAA equalization standard. The pre-amp in a modern turntable system reverses this equalization making the record sound normal. 78 records had many equalization standards and none line up very closely with RIAA. If you use an RIAA pre-amp for 78 playback, it won't be perfect but at least the treble won't be overwhelming and the bass won't be underwhelming. Perhaps your best bet is to do a "flat transfer" then use your computer to apply the proper 78 equalization. Brian Davie's free Equalizer program contains all major 78 record equalization standards. Audacity's Equalization effect has several standards as well.
• What equipment do you need? Very few companies make gear designed specifically for 78 records and very few retailers sell it. Here's what to look for:
  • Cartridge: Stanton 500 (or 700 if you have a P-Mount). I can't recall ever seeing another cartridge recommended for 78 records in my research. Nearly all 78 needles still in production are designed to fit the Stanton 500/700.
  • Styli (Needles): 78 needles are much wider than vinyl needles. A typical vinyl needle is around .6 mil (.0006 inches). 78 needles are between two mil and four mil to match the wider grooves. The following styli all fit the Stanton 500 cartridge.
    • Esoteric Sound manufactures a 3.0 mil stylus (model D5130E). They claim, "If you only buy one 78 stylus, this is it." At around $150 for a 78 record needle, you may not want to buy more than one.
    • KABUSA sells a range of needles in various widths. The widths start at 1.1 mil to and go as high as 4.0. Serious 78 archivists use many different size needles to match the varying characteristics of vintage records.
• 78 Record Info on the Web:
  • Downloadable 78 Recordings @ cdbpdx: One man has put over 4,000 public domain 78 recordings on the web. Download them free. Lots of memorable music from artists such as: Count Basie, Hank Williams, Glenn Miller, Bennie Goodman, Louis Armstrong, Ella Fitzgerald, Peggy Lee and more. Get them individually or all at once through BitTorrent.
  • Downloadable 78 Recordings @ Internet Archive: Find another 10,000 recordings from old 78 RPM records to download.
  • Vintage 78s – Getting in the Groove: Excellent, detailed primer on archiving 78 RPM records as a hobby. Includes many photos, drawings and diagrams.
  • From 78 to CD: A collection of anecdotes and advice on digitizing your 78 record collection from 78RPMRecord.com.

I apologize for glossing over this subject and I'm sorry you felt neglected. I hope this conversation will guide Knowzy readers with questions about digitizing 78 collections.